The 20th century was a period of unprecedented change, and nowhere is that more visible than in the evolution of watch design. From pocket watches to wristwatches, from the delicate Art Deco styles to the rugged tool watches of the Space Age, each era left an indelible mark on horology. At Prezgara, we appreciate the rich history that informs today’s designs.
Let’s take a journey through the decades to see how the watch on your wrist came to be.
1900s–1920s: The Dawn of the Wristwatch
At the turn of the century, the pocket watch was still king. However, a growing need for a more practical, hands-free timepiece—especially among pilots and military personnel—began to change everything. The wristwatch, once seen as a feminine accessory, started to gain acceptance. Early designs were often round, with a functional, straightforward look. This era also saw the birth of the Cartier Tank, a revolutionary rectangular watch inspired by military vehicles, which brought geometric elegance to the wrist.
1930s–1940s: Art Deco and Military Function
The 1930s were defined by the sleek, elegant lines of the Art Deco movement. Watch designs became more refined, with geometric shapes, stepped bezels, and ornate dials. However, as the world moved toward war, watch design shifted toward utility and durability. The military needed legible, robust, and reliable timepieces. This era gave us the quintessential military watch: large, easy-to-read dials with luminous numbers and hands, and rugged cases built to withstand harsh conditions. This functional aesthetic would influence civilian watches for decades to come.
1950s: The Golden Age of Tool Watches
The post-war boom was a time of exploration and adventure. With the rise of commercial aviation, underwater diving, and mountaineering, a new category of specialized "tool watches" emerged. This decade saw the introduction of true icons:
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The Dive Watch: The Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms were launched, setting the standard for water resistance and legibility.
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The Pilot's Watch: The Breitling Navitimer became the ultimate pilot’s chronograph, complete with a slide rule bezel for complex flight calculations.
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The GMT Watch: The Rolex GMT-Master was created for Pan Am pilots to track two time zones at once, a crucial tool for the dawn of global travel.
1960s: Space, Speed, and Bold Design
The Space Race and the rise of motorsport pushed watch design into a new frontier. Brands created watches for daring ventures beyond Earth's atmosphere and for timing races with split-second precision. The Omega Speedmaster Professional was certified by NASA for all manned space missions, earning its place in history on the moon. Chronographs became popular, with bolder dials and cleaner lines. This era was also when the luxury watch brand came into its own, shifting from a tool to a statement of personal style.
1970s: The Quartz Crisis and the Steel Revolution
The arrival of affordable, highly accurate quartz watches from Japan sent shockwaves through the Swiss watch industry. Many traditional brands struggled to compete. In response, a new genre of luxury sports watches was born. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta, was a radical concept: a high-end watch made of steel. Its unconventional, industrial-inspired design—with an integrated bracelet and exposed screws—was a bold move that created an entirely new market and cemented the steel sports watch as a cornerstone of luxury horology.
The 1980s & 1990s: Revival and Reaffirmation
The late 20th century saw a resurgence of interest in mechanical watches, as consumers began to appreciate their craftsmanship and heritage once more. Brands leaned into their history, re-issuing classic models and refining their iconic designs. New materials and technologies were introduced, but the core design principles established in the mid-century—legibility, durability, and elegance—remained paramount. The watch was no longer just a tool; it was a status symbol, a piece of art, and a link to a storied past.
The watch on your wrist is a culmination of this incredible history. It’s a testament to a century of innovation, a blend of timeless style and modern technology.


